The skin
Definition:
The skin is the body's outer covering. It protects us against heat and light, injury, and infection. It regulates body temperature and stores water, fat, and vitamin D. Weighing about 6 pounds, the skin is the body's largest organ.
The skin Reflect :
ü Age
Health
Life style
Image
ü
Skin Function
1- Gives us our appearance and shape
2- Protection ( bacteria-heat-chemicals-UV)
3- Regulation of our Temp. through sweating
Skin Structure
§ Skin consists of 3 layers
ü Epidermis
ü Dermis
ü subcutaneous hypodermis
The outer most layers is stratum corneum which consists of dead cells and water .
§ Oily skin
tends to shiny with enlarged pores, and is prone to blackheads & blemishes. You might experience some tightness.
§ Dry skin
Tend to feels tight, especially after cleansing, & liable to have fine wrinkles, flaking & red patches. In colored women, skin may appear ashy or dull from dead skin build-up.
§ Combination/normal
This skin type has medium pores, a smooth & even texture, good circulation, healthy colour, may tend toward dryness on the cheeks while being oily in the t-zone.
§ Sensitive skin
tends to be thin, delicate with fine pores. It flushes easily, , frequently allergic & can be rashy.
Each person's skin is unique and is a natural combination of three factors:
1. Water content, which is responsible for the skin's suppleness and comfort.
2. Lipid content, which is responsible for nutrition and softness.
3. Level of sensitivity, which is responsible for the skin's resistance to and tolerance of environmental factors.
Normal Skin
This skin type has medium pores ( invisible), a smooth & even texture, good circulation and no greasy patches or flaky areas, healthy colour and it has optimal content of water and lipid
Normal skin has an adequate amount of water and lipids and a moderate sensitivity level
§
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| Normal Skin Structure |
Dry Skin
Tend to feels tight, especially after cleansing, & liable to have fine wrinkles, flaking & red patches. In women of colour, skin may appear ashy or dull from dead skin build-up.
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| Dry Skin Structure |
Oily Skin
§ Tends to be shiny with enlarged pores, and is prone to blackheads & blemishes. the oil producing sebaceous glands are overactive and produce more oil than is needed. The oil oozes and gives the skin a greasy shine. The pores are enlarged and the skin has a coarse look
§ Causes of Oily Skin
ü Heredity
ü Diet
ü Hormone levels
ü Pregnancy
ü Birth control pills
ü Cosmetics you use
ü Humidity and hot weather
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| Oily Skin Structure |
Combination Skin
§ This skin type has medium pores, a smooth & even texture, good circulation, healthy colour, may tend toward dryness on the cheeks while being oily in the t-zone.
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| Combination Skin Structure |
Skin Care Daily Steps
- Cleansing
* Cleanser
* Toner
- Exfoliation
- Moisturization
- Sun Care
Cleansing
§ Benefits
ü Remove dirts,makeup,grime and contaminants.
ü Clears the way for the penetration of the active ingredients you may want to apply afterwards.
§ Frequency : for most people twice daily.
§ Precaution : Knowing the skin type is critical in choosing the proper cleanser.
§ Sales benefit
The cleansing stage considered as main line of treatment and must be performed before application of any product in case of
ü Hyperpigmintation
ü Wrinkle
ü Moisturization
ü Acne
ü Sun protection
As it prepares the skin to absorb the product you may want to apply afterward increasing its efficacy
( Wet cleansing ) ( Dry cleansing )
Rinse with tape water Use a piece of cotton for application
Or Both
§ Notice
ü Application of all these steps in cleansing process is a must in case of oily skin
ü For other types of skin we could use wet or dry cleanser followed by cleansing toner to tight the pores and remove the residuals of cleansers
Cleansers
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| Cleansers Classification |
We must choose cleansers that suit skin type. If we choose an oily skin cleanser for cleansing dry skin, it will increase its dryness causing sever damage to the skin . On the other hand if we use a dry skin cleanser for cleansing oily skin it will cause more accumulation of oils and sebium which leads to akne , black heads and pimples formation.
§ Why the eye zone need special products ?!!
Ø The skin around eye has its own traits:
1. It has virtually no sebaceous glands.
2. It is much thinner and more sensitive than other facial skin.
3. It overlies a particularly dense capillary network.
4. Has minimal fat badding.
5. Stressed by frequent eye movement and squinting.
Ø Eye make up products (Mascaras and eye shadows ) are of wide variety in their composition ,( water-based , solvent-based , petrolatum distillates , water proof formulas ) So,they need special cleansers of mixed properties.
§ Customer education
1. Pour a small amount of cleanser in your palm.
2. Gently run the cleanser all over you face with your finger tips for 20-25 seconds.
3. Splash running warm water (lukewarm water ) in your face several times to rinse off the cleanser until there is no more residue on your skin, Don’t direct the stream onto your face.
4. Take a clean towel and gently pat your face, make sure it remains moist to prepare your face for the following step.
5. Cleansers may be washed up by water or toner or wiped off by a cotton or cloth according to the cleanser’s type.
§ Sales gate
Facial cleansers not suitable for eye zone cleansing as it is irritant ( not ophthalmogically tested )
So we recommend using special formula for eye zone cleaning ( eye makeup removal formulas )
§ Cleansing products available at NMC
product | Ingredient | Features | Benefits | Picture |
RoC Enydrial dermatological bar | · soap free cleansing agents · Glycerin · Panthenol · Beta Sitosterol | · Against dehydration · Against inflammation ,irritation · No fragrance , hypoallergenic , non comedogenic, moisturizing, soap free · Without over drying effect · reduce discomfort sensation for dry skin | · Suitable for skin dryness and sensitive skin · suitable in hajj& ommra seasons · moisturizing effect · suitable in skin dryness diseases with high tolerability |  |
RoC Enydrial Face cleansing lotion | · Soap free cleansing agents · glycerin · Emollient agents · Panthenol | · Against dehydration · Against inflammation ,irritation · No fragrance , hypoallergenic , non comedogenic, moisturizing, soap free · Without over drying effect | · Ideal make up remover for both eye &face even water proof make up for dry skin, just with cotton pads no water needed · Suitable for skin dryness and sensitive skin · suitable in hajj& ommra seasons · moisturizing effect · suitable in skin dryness diseases with high tolerability |  |
RoC Enydrial foaming gel | · soap free cleansing agents · Glycerin · Panthenol · Beta Sitosterol | · Against dehydration · Against inflammation ,irritation · No fragrance , hypoallergenic , non comedogenic, moisturizing, soap free · Without over drying effect | · Same like soap but in gel form according to consumer life style |  |
RoC Hydra 3in 1 | · Triple action Cleanser Toner Moisturizer ( Clarify, tightening the pores and moisturize the skin ) | · 3 uses in just one product ( one step) provide time saving ,economic & easy to use with cotton pads · Make up removal |  | |
RoC Purif-ac cleanser | · 1%salycilic acid) | · Deeply clean the pores, remove oils · prevent formation of spots & black heads | · Daily care for acne prone skin and oily skin · Potentiate the action of upward applied medication in case of acne | |
RoC Calmance cleansing lotion | · milky cleanser with anti inflammatory ,itching and redness effect….by cotton pads | · suitable for cleansing after sun burn, leaser ,chemical peeling and any skin problems having redness ( sensitive skin ) · Used as water proof make up remover | ||
RoC eye makeup remover | · Remove impurities and make up of eye | · suitable for the delicate eye contour |  | |
Roc skin toner | · Remove deep impurities · Tighten the pores · Remove residuals of cleansers | · give healthy clean skin | ||
EXFOLIAC Foaming gel 200 ML | · AHA · Zinc lactate | · Control sebum production · purify the skin and eliminate impurities | · prepare the skin for care · mask blemishes · moisturize · matify complexion all day long |  |
DUCRAY Keracnyl Cleansing Gel – 200ml | · Glycolic acid 4% · Zinc salicylate 0.5% · Sabal · Glycerin | Keratolytic action (AHA+BHA) Bactericidal effect on acne Sebum reduction Hydrating action | Cleanse and clears the shiny skin Suitable for acne prone skin and oily skin |  |
ORANGE DAILY Daily cleanser | Oat Protein Witch Hazel Molasses Vitamin C | -(Hydrolyzed Oat Protein) Moisturizing Botanical Film Forming Conditioning Agent -(Saccharum Officinarum) Plant Source of Alpha Hydroxy Acid, has an excellent Exfoliating action -(Hamamelis Virginiana) An antioxidant form of retinol that helps increase epidermal thickness and stimulate epidermal proteins to keep skin soft and plump | -Detoxification, soothing and Protection of the skin -Washes away make-up, dirt and other impurities. Leaves skin feeling refreshed and silky smooth -Good for all skin Types - A detergent- and formaldehyde-free cleanser that gently purges dirt, makeup, and environmental pollutants from the skin without dehydration or irritation |  |
BIODERMA Atoderm soap | · Mild washing base, SLS free · High rinsing power · Biconcave in shape- melt slowly big volume Lasting for longer duration · Perfume free | · Moisturizing ,soothing and Anti septic soap For face and body use (Adults, children and babies ) · Not irritating patients with atopic skin · better patient acceptance. · Suitable for atopic and dry skin patient · Could be used in hajj |  | |
BIODERMA Sebium foaming gel | · Soothing, seboregulating, purifying actions · Excellent ocular and skin tolerance. · For Ladies: could be used as Make up remover · For Men : could be used as Shaving foam | · Suitable cleanser For oily and Combination skin and for acne prone skin and for acne patients under treatment · Excellent tolerability · Suitable for men with beard follliculitis | ||
CLEARASIL Daily face wash | · 2% salicylic acid · 2% sorbitol · Glycerin · AreaumatsTM | · It has Keratolytic and purifying action · Moisturizer · Soothing and calming effect decreasing PGE2 and increasing endogenous endorphin · Removing impurities , dirt and contaminants · Preparing the skin to accept and absorb upward application of medication | • Fights 100% of spots • Clinically tested / clinically proven • Clears existing spots / Helps prevent spots • Visibly clearer skin • Visibly reduces spot size • Visibly reduces spot redness • Dermatologically tested • Acceptable tolerance • Without over drying |  |
CLEARASIL Deep pore treatment toner ( Ultra lotion ) | · 2% salicylic acid · 2% sorbitol · Glycerin · AreaumatsTM | · It has Keratolytic and purifying action · Moisturizer · Soothing and calming effect decreasing PGE2 and increasing endogenous endorphin · Tightening pores after cleansing · Removing the residuals of cleansers | • Fights 100% of spots • Clinically tested / clinically proven • Clears existing spots / Helps prevent spots • Visibly clearer skin • Visibly reduces spot size • Visibly reduces spot redness • Dermatologically tested • Acceptable tolerance • Without over drying |  |
OLAY Skin Adapt Face wash | · Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, · Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Tridecyl Sulfate, Salicylic Acid, Sorbitol, Glycerin, Sodium Chloride, | · Controls sebum production · purifies the skin and eliminates impurities | · Adapts to varying needs of skin · Balances drier and oilier areas of the skin · Removes impurities leaving skin soft and smooth · Suitable for normal, oily and combination skin |  |
OLAY Skin Adapt milk | · Glycerin · Paraffinum Liquidum, · PEG 6 Stearate, · PEG 30 · Glyceryl Stearate, · niacinamide, · Cymbopogon Citratu | · Controls sebum production purifies the skin pores and eliminates impurities | · Adapts to varying needs of skin · Balances drier and oilier areas of the skin · Removes impurities leaving skin soft and smooth Deeply cleanses oilier areas while hydrating dry areas · Suitable for normal, oily and combination skin |  |
OLAY Skin Adapt toner | · Salicylic Acid, · Glycerin, · Panthenol, · Sodium Dehydroacetate, · Salvia Officinalis (Sage exctract), Camelli | · Tightening pores after cleansing · Removing the residuals of cleansers · purifies the skin pores and eliminates impurities | · Adapts to varying needs of skin · Balances drier and oilier areas of the skin · Removes impurities leaving skin soft and smooth and the pores tight · Suitable for normal, oily and combination skin |  |
OLAY Gentle Cleanser Face wash | · Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, · PEG-200 · Hydrogenated Glyceryl palmate, · sorbitol, · Glycerin · aloe barbadensis · , cucumis sativitus | · gentle on skin for everyday cleansing. · A formulation of caring cleansing ingredients, containing extracts of Aloe and cucumber which lifts away dirt and make up to effectively cleanser and refresh the skin | · Removes impurities leaving skin soft and smooth · Moisturize the skin · Facilitate the absorption of upward applied creams · Suitable for normal and dry skin |  |
OLAY Gentle Cleanser eye makeup remover | · Sodium Lauroamphoacetate · , PEG-200 · Hydrogenated Glyceryl palmate, · Sorbitol · glycerin, · aloe barbadensis · , cucumis sativitus | · Gently cleanses · , effectively removes waterproof makeup , perfumed and color free | · Non irritant to eye zone · Ophthalmologic ally tested · Suitable for normal and dry skin |  |
``OLAY Total effect facial wash | · Dimethicon · Panthenol · Niacinamide · Glycerin · Vitamin B5 | · Removing impurities , dirt and contaminants · Preparing the skin to accept and absorb upward application of medication | · Enhance the efficacy of upward applied total effect cream · Stimulates cell renewal |  |
Exfoliaion & Masks
§ Chapter objectives
By the end of this chapter we must be able to know the following :
ü Benefits of exfoliation process
ü Types of exfoliation
ü Exfoliation patient education
ü Glycolic acids actions and uses
ü Product knowledge of exfoliators
ü Facial masks types
ü Facial masks usage instructions
ü Sales benefits of exfoliation knowledge
§ Benefits:
ü Removal of dead cells
ü Renewal of cells
ü Skin smoothing
ü Collagen stimulation
ü Whitening
Exfoliation Types
§ Physical ( mechanical ) exfoliation
It is done by
ü Scrub
It depend on the friction between the micro beads and the skin
ü Exfoliating Mask ( peel off mask)
Suitable for dull skin
Boost of radiance
deep down clean face, tighten pores, or brighten and exfoliate the face.
provides instant, intensive smoothing benefits.
dissolves dull and dry skin creating a complexion that is fresh, clear, smooth, and bright.
► Cleansing mask
Ü Often contain clay or fruit, absorb excess oils. The enzymes in fruits such as papaya have a deep-cleansing action and leave the skin glowing.
Ü Better suited to oily and some combination skins
Ü Great for removing excess oil, deep cleaning Natural clay is a great detoxifying treatment for face without leaving skin extra dry. Most clay masks work fine with sensitive skin. also help to unclog the pores and remove dead skin cells. Thus, they discourage the formation of blackheads, refine the pores and improve the texture of the skin
► Moisturizing mask
Ü Suitable for dry skin
Ü rejuvenate and plump the skin
Ü Could be used as firming mask as it boost skins moisture content which will reduce fine lines caused by skins dehydration. This will give the appearance of a more youthful and firmer face.
► Exfoliating mask
Ü Mentioned before
Masks usage instructions
► Clay type
Ü Cleans the face first then Pat your face dry.
Ü Then squeeze some of the mask into your hand.
Ü Apply it with soft circular motion to help it get into the various pores, nooks and crannies of your face. You want it to be thick enough that every pore gets some goo into it, but thin enough so that the whole mask can dry and therefore lift away that dirt and oil. A good rule of thumb is that you want to put on just enough so that you can't see the skin any more - but so there is not a 'thickness' to the mask It should be like a layer of aluminum foil pressed down on your skin, as far as a thickness similarity goes. Solid but thin.
Ü Let the mask dry. Each mask will have on it a recommendation of how long this takes, usually from 10 minutes to 30 minutes. You want the mask to be fully dry so it has sucked all of the impurities away from your pores, but you also don't want to sit there for hours! ,
Ü use warm water and a washcloth to wash away the mask. This again keeps the pores open so that any lingering clays are cleaned out of them, and the washcloth helps to get that clay off your face.
Ü rinse with cold water (The cold water will close the pores back up again, helping them keep future grime from entering )
► Peel off type
Ü Use your fingers or a cotton ball to apply a fairly thick layer to your face and neck. Use care around your eyes.
Ü Let the mask dry completely.
Ü Peel off the face mask ( remove it as one layer ) and rinse with plain cool wate
§ Chemical exfoliation
Is done by different ingredient like ,
Tretinoin , Iso tretinoin , Adapalene , Azelic acid and Glycolic acids
( Alpha Hydroxy acids , Poly Hydroxy acids and Omega Hydroxy acids)
Exfoliation sales benefits:ü Line of treatment of wrinkles as it collagen stimulant
ü Line of treatment of Hyperpigmintation as it Keratoactive( removal of skin surface layer with accumulated melanin )
ü Treatment of non inflamed acne as it has Seboregulatory and anti infective effect
ü Moisturizer
§ Patient education
► For physical exfoliators
ü Gentle rubbing
ü Prober choice for micro beads size ( face , body , once a week , once daily )
► For chemical exfoliators
ü Thin layer once a day at night with gradual increasing for contact time
ü Don’t exceed 5% for face and 10% for body in case of OTC
ü Using sun protection
ü As usual with all new products application sensitivity test must be done before usage
§ Exfoliation products available at NMC
| Product | Ingredient | Features | Benefits | Picture |
| RoC Purif-ac exfoliating lotion | · Salicylic acid(2%) · sepicontrol A 5 · Cedar wood · Portulaca · Alantoin and bisabolol · copper & zinc | · Keratolytic action · Seboregulatory action · Comedolitique · Anti bacterial & fungus action · Anti pruritic · Anti inflammatory · Reinforce immunity defense · soothing action · Repairing action · daily without need of water especially for black heads | · Purifies & tighten the pores and eliminates black heads · Reduce imperfections & un clog the pores · Reduce inflammation & · Soothes redness & inflammation · Healing of marks left by spots |  |
| EXFOLIAC Facial scrub 50 ml | · AHA · Smooth exfoliating micro bisabolol | · Stimulate cell renewal · Remove dead skin · Reduce blemishes · Remove impurities | · Suitable for those with oily skin for weekly care · Scar removal · Non inflamed acne care · Soothing skin |  |
| Bio skincare Apricot Facial and Body Scrub | · Finely crushed apricot kernel | · Remove all traces of dead skin cells, pimples, · open blocked pores. | · Cleanse, invigorate and moisture skin. |  |
| Bio skincare Blueberry & Almond Body Scrub | · Finely ground blueberry & almond | · Reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and crow’s feet. · helps with dry patches and flaky skin. | · Effective in wrinkle treatment |  |
| Bio skin care Olive Face & Body Scrub | · Natural Olives | · Help’s to maintain elasticity of skin, · Promote a smooth, radiant complexion, · Heal dry, brittle nails and soften cuticles. | · Moisten the skin · Useful in stretch mark |  |
| Bio skin care Strawberry Face & Body Scrub | · Fresh Strawberries | · Rich in antioxidants, help maintain a healthy appearance | · Helps to promote anti-aging. |  |
| CLEARASIL Acne clearing scrub | · 2% salicylic acid 3% · glycerin · micro beads · AreaumatsTM | · It has chemical and mechanical Keratolytic action thinning the keratinized outer most epidermal layer · Soothing and calming effect as it decrease PGE2 and increase endogenous endorphins | · Fights 100% of spots · Clinically tested / clinically proven · Clears existing spots / Helps prevent spots · Visibly clearer skin · Visibly reduces spot size · Visibly reduces spot redness · Dermatologically tested · Acceptable tolerance · Without over drying |  |
| OLAY Total effect mask | · Dimethicon · Panthenol · Niacinamid · Glycerin · Vitamin B5 · Vitamin E · Titanium dioxid · Zinc oxide · Vitamin C | · Vitamin B3 Energizes skin cell · Pro Vit B5: Stimulates cell renewal · Vitamin C: Enhances skin metabolism and helps reduce pigmentation spots (whitening attributes) · Vitamin E: Anti-oxidant which fights free radicals, key in fighting skin ageing · Mineral Spring extract: · zinc oxide (Protects Skin) · Sodium (moisturizes), and magnesium ( strengthens the skin) | Fight 7 signs of ageing · Fine lines · . Wrinkles. · Age spots. · Rough texture. · Dry, scaly skin · .Uneven skin tone. · Deep pores. |  |
